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BRAGGING BOARD: More awesome tables!

Jennifer from Grasshoppers and Butterflies made this square Modern Farm table for $50.  See the plans for the Modern Farm Table here.

Here is what Jennifer said:

“I have wanted a square dining table FOREVER but refuse to pay $600 – $1000. This one only cost me about $50 and was super easy to build. Keep the awesome plans coming!”

Jennifer stained this table with Minwax Ebony stain.  She also modified the dimensions to fit her needs.  One more photo after the jump.  You can also visit Jennifer’s Blog Grasshoppers and Butterflies for more photos.

Jennifer is also building the matching benches.  Can’t wait to see those!

Kevin built this Hyde End table

Here is what Kevin said about building this table

“As promised here is my version of the Hyde table. I used a satin black on the base and Dark Walnut stain for the top. Distressing achieved by use of a chisel, bag of screws and some sanding. Thanks again for a great plain and a cheap build. Nothing like building something for 1/6th the cost of retail.

Keep up the great work. Oh one thing of note my top is constructed with Biscuit Joinery and the dowels are functional. There are no screws holding the top on. First time I have done that so we will see how it works out. “

See 2 more photos after the jump.  Thanks Jennifer and Kevin for sharing.

Here is a photo of the top of Jennifer’s Modern Farm Table

And a couple of photos of the top of Kevin’s End Table.  Kevin distressed the top with screws, nails and a chisel.

Thanks again for sharing!

GIVEAWAY WINNER!!!

Thank you all for your nice comments and supporting my site.  What a great way to start 2010!

Choosen by Random.org, our Giveaway Winner is . . .

Toni M

“I follow your blog and look at it all the time to find my next project. I have started a TO DO list of things to build with my husband when he is home. We love working together on projects.”

Thanks for following, Toni! 

Toni, please send me an email with your email address.  I would love to get this gift card to you right away!

PLANS: Trundle Bed or Storage { Pottery Barn }

Trundles are a smart idea for children that share rooms or just adding extra storage to a small space.  Trundles are also suprisingly easy to build.

A well fitted and color matched trundle can also enhance the appearance of a twin bed. 

simple daybed plans here

The plans I am going to show you today are not going to sag in the middle, cost a ton of money, or be difficult to build.  So if you just want a huge drawer under you’re child’s bed (or even if your guest room), make sure you check these plans out.  Want these plans?  Click on READ MORE below.

You will need:

1 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood or MDF

3 – 1x8s or 1x10s (depending on the height of your trundle)

2″ screws

wood glue

wood putty

sand paper

finishing supplies

6 Caster wheels, overall height at least 2 1/2″

Screws to attach caster wheels

Tools

Saw

Drill with countersink and drill bits

Hand Sander

The most important factor in building a trundle is ensuring it will fit under the bed.  With this in mind, I am going to encourage you to build your trundle to the specifications of your bed.  If you would like to use the trundle with a standard twin mattress, the overall clearnance length of your bed (the length between the legs on the sides) must be at least 77″.  If you are building a bed, make note of this and build your bed so the side rails are 77″ long.

You must also understand the overall height of the trundle.  Make sure your trundle will fit under the bed.  The trundle I designed uses 1x8s, and you will need at least 8″ of clearnance under the bed.  If you have more clearance, you can use a 1×10.

Measurents you will need: 

A) Overall height or clearance under the bed

B) Overall distance between the legs of the bed (or the length of the siderails)

C) Width of the bed.  Overall width of the bed is approximately 39″ for a twin.

Subtract 2″ from the overall height (A).  This is approximately the greatest height you could make your trundle at. Of course you could make the trundle shorter.

Subtract 1/2″ from the overall measurement (B).  This is the greatest possible length of the trundle.  Of course, you can make the trundle smaller.

Remember, a standard trundle mattress measures 75″ x 39″.  I recommend staying close to these dimensions in order to use a standard twin mattress, standard twin sheets, etc.  I will note, however, that I did make the top of my playhouse bed loft 72″ x 36″ and a mattress fit fine up there.

1.  Cut your plywood equal to the distance figured for C as the width of the plywood.  Cut the length of your plywood the distance of A – 1 1/2″.  In this example, B = 72, so the plan shows the trundle to be cut at 70 1/2″.  C = 38 1/2″, and the plywood is cut at 38 1/2″.  (Also note that these are the correct dimensions for a storage trundle for the Simple Daybed.)

Attach the ends, as shown above.  This example shows the use of 1x8s.  For a deeper trundle, you can use 1x10s (if your bed has at least 10″ of clearance).  Leave a 2″ clearance under the plywood when attaching the trundle sides, this is shown above.  Use the 2″ screws to predrill through the trundle sides and screw into the bottom.  If you are using MDF, make sure you predrill the entire depth of the screw and use drywall screws NOT wood screws.  Avoid screwing within 1″ of the end edges of the MDF.

2.  Attach the Trundle Sides.  Attach the trundle sides in the same manner as step 1.  However, make sure you also screw into the end edges of the trundle side ends.

3.  Caster Wheels.  Worried about the middle of your trundle sagging?  Don’t be.  This trundle is not going to sag.  Add trundle wheels to each of the four corners and two wheels in the center of the trundle, as shown above.  The center trundle wheels will act as a support and prevent the center of the trundle from sagging.

4.  Finishing.  Fill screw holes with wood putty and sand and finish as desired.

***In return for providing you with free furniture plans, I request that you add comments on your building experience to assist other building the same projects. Please add reactions to help others and post relevant questions as comments. Photos of your work is greatly appreciated to add to my bragging board! See Contact Me button for email instructions.***

***Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of the publisher, Ana White, Knock Off Wood***

***While I do strive to produce accurate plans, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post have I had the opportunity to build myself. Some plans have not been tested. It is recommended that you draw out the plans and have a clear understanding of how the project will fit together before begining. I hope that if you do find a flaw in any plans, you will contact me immediately***

BRAGGING BOARD: Leilani’s Reclaimed Wood Island

More Reader Successes Stories.  Leilani and her husband built their very own kitchen island out of wood they reclaimed themselves from a shed last weekend. 

I love, love the notched out legs.

“This weekend my husband and I made this island for our kitchen. It was inspired by the hyde tables and the restoration hardware farmhouse table. We had to build it to fit our needs, so its not exactly the same as any of the plans. We used boards that had been shelves in our shed, so they were perfectly weathered and even had some paint that we only partially sanded off. It turned out beautiful, and I wanted to share some pictures with you. Thanks for your blog, I check it every day!” Leilani

I love how they made this table their own.  When you build something for yourself, you might as well build it perfect for your needs.

Is anyone else feeling like they need to tear down a shed right about now?

I love how the edges are naturally distressed.

Very nice screw hole pattern.  To me, the screw holes actually add to the character of the table, instead of taking from it.

Leilani, thank you so much for sharing!  Beautiful.

Would you like to share your work?  Click on Contact Me above.

PLANS: Storage Dining Table { Pottery Barn and Crate & Barrel }

I have a soft spot for readers who are starting out or have young children.  Perhaps it’s because I’m there too . . . a less than magazine-worthy house with mixmatched furniture leftover from college, a crying baby, and an intense desire to be like you were before life happened.  Like many of you, I live in a tiny starter house, and every inch of space is crucial.  So I understood when I received multiple emails for plans for this storage dining table.

The table I have designed today is a little smaller, 42″ width to be exact.  You can use a 48″ tabletop too.  This is an easy project, and I hope you enjoy the plans.

Click on READ MORE below to see the complete plans.

This table will use premade table legs and a precut tabletop.

You will need 4 of these table legs mounting hardware pieces. They are about $1 each.

You will also need 4 furniture feet, 4 3/4″ height, with a matching bolt attached to the top, as shown above.  You can pick a different style if you choose.  This particular foot is shown here.

If you want to keep the table simple and spend less, check out how this table’s legs are constructed.  You can do the same on the Shayne table.  Just keep the overall length of the legs at 28 1/2″.  I also love the idea of using caster wheels for feet!

You will need to purchase

1 – 42″ – 48″ Unfinished Round Tabletop (Available at Lowes and Home Depot)

4 – 4 3/4″ Precut Unfinished Feet (Available at Lowes and Home Depot)

4 – Surface Mount Hardware Brackets (see above)

3/4″ Hardwood Plywood or MDF (if you are painting) (about 1/4 of a sheet)

2 – 1×3 boards

4 - 1×2 boards

You will need

2″ screws

2″ nails

1 1/4″ nails

Wood Glue

Sand Paper

Wood Putty

Finish Supplies (Paint, Stain, Varnish, etc)

Overall Dimensions of the table is 30″ high, tabletop 42″ diameter (shown below) 

These legs are just a grahical representation of the precut legs from the above diagrams.

Cutting List

A) 4 – 1×2 @ 28 1/2″ (1×2 Part of the Legs)

B) 4 – 1×3 @ 28 1/2″ (1×3 Part of the Legs)

C) 2 – 3/4″ Plywood @  20″ x 20″ (Shelves)

D) 2 – 1×2 @ 20″ (Inner Apron on the 1×2 Sides)

E) 2 – 1×2 @ 18 1/2″ (Inner Apron on the 1×3 Sides)

F) 2 – 1×3 @ 17″ (Apron on the 1×2 sides)

G) 2 – 1×3 @ 16 1/2″ (Apron on the 1×3 sides)

H) 4 – 1×2 @ 17″ (Shelf Trim on the 1×2 Sides)

I) 4 – 1×2 @ 16 1/2″ (Shelf Trim on the 1×3 Sides)

J) 42 ” Round Tabletop

General Instructions.  Cut all your boards first.  You can choose to cut your trim and outer apron pieces as you go to get the best fit.  Always use glue.  Use 2″ nails or screws unless otherwise directed.  Always take a square of your project after each step (see HOW-TO section).  Work on a clean level surface.  If your table is going to be subject to alot of abuse, I recommend using screws instead of nails.  Always predrill and countersink your screws.

1.  Legs.  Build your legs as shown above. Use pieces A and B.

2.  Shelves.  Use the diagram above to fasten the shelves (C) shown in green above to the legs.  Nail through the outsides of the legs into the shelves. 

3.  Inner Apron, 1×2 Sides.  Attach the inner apron, pieces D, to the 1×2 parts of the legs.  Use the 1 1/4″ nails to nail to the 1x2s and also nail through the 1×3 legs into the end edges of the inner apron.

4.  Inner Apron, 1×3 Side.  Use pieces E to complete the inner apron, as shown above.  Follow the same steps as step 3.

5.  Apron Pieces.  Use pieces F and G to complete the apron.  Follow the directions shown in the diagram above.  Keep top edges flush.

6.  Shelf Trim.  Trim out the shelves as shown above.  Keep top edges flush.  You will use pieces H and I.

7.  Legs.  Fasten the legs according to the directions of your legs.  If your legs do not come with a hanger bolt, you can simply screw through the top of the bottom shelf into the legs.  Just use a long screw and predrill first to prevent splitting.

8.  Tabletop.  Attach the tabletop as shown above, centering the base on the tabletop.  Predrill through the blue highlighted inner apron piece into the underside of the table.  Be cautious of drilling through the tabletop.

9.  Finishing. Fill nail holes with wood putty and sand and finish as desired. 

In return for providing you with free furniture plans, I request that you add comments on your building experience to assist other building the same projects. Please add reactions to help others and post relevant questions as comments. Photos of your work is greatly appreciated to add to my bragging board! See Contact Me button for email instructions.

***Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of the publisher, Ana White, Knock Off Wood

***While I do strive to produce accurate plans, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post have I had the opportunity to build myself. Some plans have not been tested. It is recommended that you draw out the plans and have a clear understanding of how the project will fit together before begining. I hope that if you do find a flaw in any plans, you will contact me immediately***

PLANS: Canopy for the Farmhouse Bed { Pottery Barn }

A bed with a canopy is the ultimate in romance and luxury.

But this canopy, with it’s farmhouse style, is also comfortable, livable an inviting.

Don’t feel like you can only sleep in this bed with silk pajamas

Or even have to neatly “make” the bed every morning.  In fact, this bed ensemble, casually thrown together, is my current favorite.

The best part about this canopy?  It’s only going to cost you about $20 and a few hours work of excercise.

Want to add the canopy to your Farmhouse Bed?  I do!  Click on READ MORE below to see the plans.

Shopping List

2 – 4×4 Posts, 8′ Length
4 – 2×4 Boards (stud or 8′ length)
4 – Hanger Bolts, at least 5″ Long (see below)
4 – Angle Brackets (see below)
8 – 3″ wood screws
Flat headed wood screws for the brackets, at least 1 1/2″ long
wood glue
sand paper
finishing supplies (paint, stain, varnish, etc)

Overall Height is shown below.  Length and width depend on your bed size.

Canopy Post, Headboard – 2 – 4×4 Posts @ 24″
Canopy Post, Footboard – 2 -4×4 Posts @ 57 1/2″

Canopy Sides are equal to the distance between the legs on the sides, as shown in the diagram above.

Canopy Top and Bottom are equal to the 2×4 header in the headboard and footboard as shown in the diagram above.

You will need 4 brackets like these (the L30 – should be less than 1 dollar each)
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/L-LS-GA.asp
These are available at most hardware stores.  Just remember, the bracket needs to be less than 3 1/2″ wide and less than 1 1/2″ high, like the L30 bracket from Simpson Strong Tie shown below:

You will also need 4 Hanger Bolts, like these:

This bolt is available at Lowes here.  .  Use a hanger bolt at least 5″ long, and 1/2 diameter.

1.  Cut all your pieces, as described above.  You will need 2 headboard posts, 2 footboard posts, 2 canopy sides and 2 canopy ends.

2.  Drill holes in the headboard and footboard.  The above diagram shows how to center and drill your holes over each of the legs.  Measure your hanger bolt and drill the hole to the depth and thickness of the hanger bolt bolt end.

3.  Drill holes in the Canopy Posts.  The holes will be in the center of the bottom of the posts.  Drill the hole to the depth and width of your hanger bolts, wood screw end.  Screw the hanger bolt into the canopy post, using glue to hold in place.

4.  Screw the posts into the headboard and footboard holes.  Tighten until snug, but do not break the glue hold in the posts.  Adjust the posts so that they line up with the legs.  This is shown above.

5.  Screw the canopy top ends in place, as shown above.   Use at least 3″ screws.  I recommend predrilling the screw holes first before attempting assembly.

6.  Screw the Brackets to the Canopy Sides.  The diagram shown above details how to screw the brackets to the remaining canopy top sides.  Predrill your screw holes before fastening.  Use a flat headed screws.

7.  Attach the Canopy Top Sides.  Predrill your holes first.  Rest the Canopy top sides on the Canopy Ends with the bracket.  Screw in place, as shown above.

There should be no visible screw holes.  Sand and finish as desired.  You may wish to finish the canopy unassembled, then bring it into your bedroom and assemble the prefinished pieces.

I am not making any guarantee of the structure or safety of this plan.  Use at your own risk.

In return for providing you with free furniture plans, I request that you add comments on your building experience to assist other building the same projects. Please add reactions to help others and post relevant questions as comments. Photos of your work is greatly appreciated to add to my bragging board! See Contact Me button for email instructions.

***Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of the publisher, Ana White, Knock Off Wood

***While I do strive to produce accurate plans, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post have I had the opportunity to build myself. Some plans have not been tested. It is recommended that you draw out the plans and have a clear understanding of how the project will fit together before begining. I hope that if you do find a flaw in any plans, you will contact me immediately***

PLANS: How to Modify the Farmhouse Bed to King Sized { Pottery Barn }

Following so many requests, here are plans for the king size Farmhouse bed.  These plans are for the standard king, mattress measuring 80″ x 60″.  There are actually several different king sizes, so check your mattress before building.

This is my bed this morning, right after we got up.  This is real life, and our “made” bed looks like this.

So that is what Nala does when we are gone.  Caught!

The Farmhouse Bed was one of my first projects, and I will point out the screw holes on the legs.  I did a terrrible job filling the screw holes.  My thoughts then were, I’m saving so much money, who cares if it’s not perfect.  Years later, I wish I had done a better job, because it’s no longer about how much I saved.  I just love my bed.

Remember the $30 Bookcase from yesterday?

Looks like a $300 bookcase in my room too!  You can view the plans here.  Just grabbed some $5 baskets at Walmart (that’s all we have up here in Alaska), and stole some frames from the hallway.  Instant style!

Want my bed in a King Size (my bed is a King)? Click on READ MORE below.

Overall Dimensions are shown below.

Because the instructions to build this bed are essentially the same as the plans for the Queen sized (including the bed frame), I will just be providing diagrams on how to build the Heaboard and Footboard in the king size. 

Please review the plans for the Queen Sized with Arch and the Queen Sized Farmhouse Bed plans before begining this project.  Follow the plans for the Queen Size with Arch for building the side rails, if you do not have a metal bed frame.    The length of this bed is identical (80″) to a queen size.  If you do not have a box spring, you can use slats.  Please review the post on the Twin Sized Farmhouse Bed here.  There is lots of information here – look at the comments on how to add slats to the frame.  The slats will be 80″ long, I would space them closer or use bigger boards, like 2x4s.

Shopping List for the Heaboard and Footboard (this does not include the rails or frame)

4 – 1×8 (8′ Length)

2 – 4×4 Posts

1 – 1×3 (8′ Length)

8 – 1×4 (8′ Length)

2 – 2×4 (Stud or 8′ Length)

2 – 2×6 (Stud or 8′ Length)

Overall Dimensions are shown above for the headboard, King Size.

For the Headboard, you will need:

Panel Pieces (center) 10 – 1x8s @ 30″

Panel Pieces (ends) 2 – 1x3s @ 30″

Panel Trim Pieces – 4 – 1×4 @ 80″

Legs – 2 – 4×4 Posts @ 54″

Bottom Header – 1 – 2×4 @ 87″

Top Heaer – 1 – 2×6 @ 89″

Overall Dimensions for the Footboard are shown above (King Size)

For the Footboard, you will need:

Panel Pieces (center) 10 – 1x8s @ 15″ (Green)
Panel Pieces (ends) 2 – 1x3s @ 15″ (Pink)
Panel Trim Pieces – 4 – 1×4 @ 80″ (Blue)
Legs – 2 – 4×4 Posts @ 21″ (Purple)
Bottom Header – 1 – 2×4 @ 87″ (Yellow)
Top Heaer – 1 – 2×6 @ 89″ (Orange)

In return for providing you with free furniture plans, I request that you add comments on your building experience to assist other building the same projects. Please add reactions to help others and post relevant questions as comments. Photos of your work is greatly appreciated to add to my bragging board! See Contact Me button for email instructions.

***Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of the publisher, Ana White, Knock Off Wood

***While I do strive to produce accurate plans, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post have I had the opportunity to build myself. Some plans have not been tested. It is recommended that you draw out the plans and have a clear understanding of how the project will fit together before begining. I hope that if you do find a flaw in any plans, you will contact me immediately***

INSPIRATION: Antique White

I like simple.

I like white walls.

White walls contrast with wood

And I like wood furniture.

Simple wood furniture

wood furniture painted white

especially antique white

and different shades of anitque white

even in the kitchen

Love this bench!  I want to build it right now!

and white contrasted with stainless steel and wood

yes, my favorite color is Antique White.  Ana should be short for Antique, then my name would be Antique White . . . sometimes it is, sometimes I write under the name antique_white

I also love colors mixed with whites

Sometimes just a couple of pillows

Or some lighting and children’s artwork (are you thinking, I could build that corkboard?)

I love furniture painted colors

Even in the bathroom

But it’s Antique White that I love the most.  Maybe it’s all the beautiful snow outside.

Especially when some color is added to the inside (love the antlers, I’m married to a hunter)

I feel relaxed just looking at this white bedroom with blue accents. 

Yes, it’s fitting that my last name is White

And I especially love modern mixed with white.

images from Country Home, Better Homes and Garden, The Simple Home, The Farmhouse, Pottery Barn

GIVEAWAY: Happy New Year! { $25 Lowe’s Gift Card }

Thank you for supporting me in 2009. 

Because of you, I have worked harder, more efficiently, and have been challenged with new ideas.  Your emails, comments, photos, and just my statcounter showing you as a visitor has kept me motivated and inspired. 

As 2010 begins, in thanks for your support, I would be honored to give away a $25 Lowe’s Giftcard to one randomly selected lucky fellow woodworker.  I know it will go to good use. 

With your skills, it’s like giving away a coffee table . . .

or one of these bookcases!

This giveaway is random, but you can stack your deck.  First of all, if someone you refer wins, you win too.  I have TWO gift cards!  The more you refer, the greater your chances!  Here’s how to increase your odds:

1.  Become a Fan of Knock-Off Wood on Facebook.  Leave a comment that you are a fan and your name.  If you are already a fan, just leave a comment that you are a fan.  This also works for followers!  So make sure you become a follower and leave a comment that you are following too.

2.  For a second chance, share this Giveaway on Facebook.  Make sure you let everyone know why you need the gift card.  Also, encourage friends to enter the giveaway – if you refer the winner, you win, too!   Copy the link and paste in a comment to this post.

3.  For a third chance, Tweet this Giveaway on Twitter.  Make sure you let everyone know why you need the gift card.  Also, encourage followers to enter the giveaway.  Remember, if you refer the winner, you win too!  Copy the link and paste in a comment to this post.

4.  For a fourth chance, click the Thumbs Up on Stumble at my homepage, http://www.knockoffwood.blogspot.com/ and leave a review (one word works!).  Leave a comment that you clicked the thumbs up and wrote a review.

5.  For a fifth chance, post about this giveaway on your blog.  Post the link in a comment to this post.  You can use the graphics above for your blog. 

6.  And if someone you referred wins, you win too!  I have TWO giftcards to giveaway.  If someone referred you (by blog, facebook or twiiter from the five chances above), please list their name in each comment so I can send them their own giftcard.

The winner will be drawn at random by http://www.random.org/.  Drawing closes on Jan 12th, 2009.  Winner will be announced on the morning of Tuesday, January 13th.  I will announce the winner on my blog.  The winner is responsible for submiting their email address via email by January 17th, 2009, or will forfeit the prize.

VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure you leave a new comment for each time you refer my site, follow or become a fan.  The drawing will be choosen by a comment number, so if you share on facebook, leave a comment, stumble, leave a seperate comment, and so on.  I want everyone to have a fair chance!

This Giveaway in now closed.  Thank you all for entering.